The 12th edition of the London Men’s Fashion Week started on Friday, June 8th and ended on Monday, June 11th. LFWM is recognized as the bi-annual showcase of the most creative and innovative names in the fashion industry, it is a celebration of discovery and creative diversity that has made London an international hub of men’s fashion. Many promising designers were there but two particularly caught our attention: Samuel Ross with his brand A Cold Wall* and Christopher Raeburn with his green sportswear collection.
During the third day, it was Samuel Ross who stole the show with a parade and a breathtaking collection. As usual, the young designer trained by Virgil Abloh did not stop at a simple presentation of his collection. A real show has been set up. First, a group of models dressed in dark gray hooded outfits and painted skin first traveled through the space to announce the beginning of the show. After the parade, we saw them reappear pulling a wooden structure, we are now at the peak of the show; a dramatic scene where the greyish mannequins break the wooden structure to reveal a man, naked and bleeding. A-COLD-WALL * takes its name from the ideas of the intersection of architecture and social class, so this show was clearly a metaphor for breaking down these barriers.
Finally, Christopher Raeburn’s collection caught our attention. He offers a collection consisting mainly of outwear pieces from recycled polyester or organic cotton which were studied to face all climate change. He retrieved images of NASA illustrating the melting glaciers due to global warming, which he printed on different silhouettes. We find the famous slogan that is now his trademark “Remade, Reduce, Recycle, Raeburn” on the black ribbons used to carry pouches slung. Finally, during the parade, Cristopher Raeburn unveiled a capsule collection made with Timberland from old parts of the 1980s recovered, rebuilt and redesigned. He proves with this collaboration that with him even co-branding must be ethical.
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